Le Monde d’Hermès SS1999 via MIES
Fransworth house by Mies van der Rohe
Bin Zhu wearing Hermès by Margiela, shot by Yahui Wang for MIES
MONTHLY MOODBOARD – Spring hasn’t been very gentle for us in Paris; not only the country has been shut down past six months, but the weather doesn’t seem to get warmer either. My ideal trans-seasonal wardrobe includes some facile Hermès by Margiela pieces to layer, but in reality I’m running around one week straight with same old vintage Levi’s and whatever cashmere sweater that goes with. Good news is, my stock is filling up again with those chic Hermès by Margiela pieces but they just aren’t for me to keep (unfortunately) – they’ll be available at MIES soon. If only I manage to let them go!
The Row fall/winter 2018
me / aventurine, quartz, tourmaline
Giorgio di Chirico – The Double Dream of Spring, 1915
Hermès fall/winter 1998
Le Corbusier – Bronze Maquette for ‘Open Hand’ Sculpture, 1960
In Paris we are once again in lockdown, which doesn’t raise the hopes for this pandemic being over soon. However, I’ll try to use this period again to be more creative, something I’ve been missing a lot in my daily life. And I think this is a great moment to open up my mental landscape a bit.
Right before the first quarantine a friend of mine gave me a clear crystal to support my meditation, and most importantly to find the meditative mindset at any moment during the day, which got me researching more about lithotherapy. I’m not yet able to express my thoughts about it, but I definitely catch myself being around the subject quite often. There’s something similar on how I perceive crystals and the way I look at art; I try to understand everything in the rational level but then at the end it’s up to us to give meanings to what we see and what we experience. I don’t know if it makes sense, maybe I’ll get to the subject later. Anyway, anything that can help us to regain focus, and achieve a mentally clear and emotionally calm state is something to hold on to during these weird times.
And I must take my words back when I said fashion doesn’t inspire me anymore. It does, I just got too numb constantly looking at all the beige instagram accounts, all looking the same. I got my hands on some vintage Le Monde d’Hermès magazines from Margiela era – my favorite collections in fashion that ever exist – and while going through them I constantly got goosebumps. The coats he designed for Hermès are one of the reason why I ended up founding MIES. The magazines will be online soon, if I’m ever able to let go of them – the most difficult part of sourcing vintage, but I’ll surely share some of my favorite pages here.
The Row FW2020
Sepiolite at MINES mineral library / me
Galerie Patrick Seguin / me
La Contre Carpet by Diego Giacometti
It probably doesn’t come as a surprise that my early spring thoughts include The Row’s most recent collection, and especially look 8. The masculine classic silhouette gets a modern update with a balaclava, and the coat is close to perfection. Speaking of coats, I’m currently sourcing for new ones for Mies; there will be a selection of leather available soon for spring, but also I’m searching for long black cashmere coats, which are my most requested ones.
I’m slowly adding the coat selection on instagram, where they are available to purchase, while I’m trying to get the website running. This autumn has been really hectic, one of those periods when you just wish to have couple more extra hours in the day. But I have so many ideas for Mies and I can’t wait to share everything. Meanwhile here’s few shots from our first photoshoot, I’m so content while watching these. They turned out exactly how I imagined.
@mies_preowned / photography Juliette Boniau Raymond, model Wang Yahui, assistant Diellza Dobroshi, styling and creative direction by me
Max Mara coat
It is actually very hot in Paris, but despite that, my mind has been on coats for the past couple of weeks. I’m planning to launch my vintage coat shop, Mies, during the upcoming autumn and I couldn’t be more excited about it.
I recently picked up this gorgeous, but very worn, Max Mara coat from a lovely old french lady and I was hesitating for a long time if I should include it in the selection or not. But after a careful maintenance I managed to fresh it up and it got me thinking that I got into second-hand business for a reason. I’m very tired of the whole fashion cycle and newness in general. Maybe it’s because I’ve been working – more or less – in retail for almost a decade, but for years I’ve been buying almost exclusively secondhand. And I don’t mind when things have been worn, isn’t that the idea of second-hand? I’ve seen a concerning trend of people buying and selling “vintage” with the description of “brand new, tags on” (I’m also guilty) still convincing themselves being sustainable. If that’s the direction, what happens to the worn clothes at the end?
The Row pre fall 2019
Georges Jouve, Vase, ca. 1952
The Row Los Angeles store
Remember I told how much I was waiting for the pre fall 2019 lookbook from The Row? Not only they revealed the collection last week, but also opened their renewed website with a possibility to shop online. Luxury brands have been very slow to embrace e-commerce, justifying it by saying the experience and the service in the boutiques plays a big role in buying luxury products. Here’s another proof that the online experience can be just as good.
Retro 14K rose gold diamond and sapphire ring, ca. 1940s
Gierde in The Row pre fall 2019
The brand has been offering also a handpicked selection of vintage jewelry in their New York store and I love how they included the concept into their website as well. The site guides the client perfectly into the universe of The Row with every well thought detail. I would love to place an order just to discover how the delivery works (and see the packaging, obviously)
I just went to pick up this gorgeous vintage Max Mara wool coat from a lovely old French lady and it will be available soon at Mies. It’s in perfect condition and the color is such a beautiful dark camel.
Giorgio Armani cashmere coat in ‘Golden Hands’ editorial shot by Albert Watson for Vogue Italia, October 1989
I’ve been working on this exciting project for a while now and finally I’m able to reveal it. I’m launching soon a shop for vintage coats! You can follow more updates and get some inspiration at @mies_vintage instagram account.
Over the years I became quite good hunting vintage pieces, and I think it’s definitely key to a more sustainable wardrobe. And when it comes to coats, maybe it’s a Scandinavian thing, but to me a coat is the most important piece of an outfit most of the year, and with good materials it can last for decades. I wanted to put my skills in use and started to create a beautiful selection of great quality coats for everyone who doesn’t have time, or even access to browse the best vintage boutiques.
The weather finally cooled down a bit and we are getting closer to my favorite season. I predict these vintage pinstripe pants will be the most used ones.
Pants vintage Chanel
Another variation of crispy white cotton shirt for summer. This summer I’m very into loose short sleeve fit.